Dandysme

Historisches, Kulturelles und Literarisches zum Dandy

Januar 24, 2012
von mgr
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Picadilly Jim

Picadilly Jim oder Picadilly Browne war Jim Browne, an den sich George Moore folgendermaßen erinnert: »Jim was now my mentor, my hero, my boon companion. It was my pride to be seen in Picadilly with this fine Victorian gentleman, whom I recall best on a wintry day; he never wore an overcoat, but buttoned his braided coat tightly about him and swung a big stick. Long flaxen locks fell thick over his collar, and his pegtops blew about in the wind; he was known to everybody as Picadilly Jim or Picadilly Brown. Jim saluted his acquaintances with a How are you? never a How do you do?

George Moore: Hail and Farewell. Volume II. New York: Appleton, 1925.

Januar 23, 2012
von mgr
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Intellectual Dandyism

At the outset of the Intellectual Life, perhaps it may be as well to guard the young aspirant to the portals of Knowledge against a very common deformity beheld there, the Intellectual Dandy; the spirit of the Fop is not confined to clothes and fashion; there are the Beau Brummels of the Literary Institute as well as of the tailor’s shop. The Literary Fop is, indeed, but a very small affair, as innocent and tame an animal, my friend, as you could well meet. The danger, therefore, is not in anything he can do to you, but the creature is contagious; you may possibly become like him; for this Fop is “a very attractive and agreeable young man,” or, rather, to adopt the patois which such persons use, ” a very attractive agreeable young man.” It is one of the characteristics of this class of characters that they mutilate the English language most barbarously. Very few words are pronounced with any degree of correctness; their information is supposed to be most extensive, since, travelling from street to street, they have picked up a vast hodge-podge, a kind of “Omnium gatherum,” without any reference to quality, but with great reference to quantity; and there is no book, no science, no paper, no person, upon which or whom they are not prepared to pronounce dogmatic strictures. They are a kind of gad-fly dancing about in all the pools, and over all the fields of life. Everything of body and mind is arranged to strike with surprise; those books, therefore, are read, which all people are talking about. It may safely be questioned whether any of the motley group ever read a really serious book, or a book that had a serious purpose. The life of such persons is an everlasting offering upon the altar of Sensuality and Selfishness; everything in the world is made to reflect the character of self; they truly deserve the character of the poet; they are, wherever found,

A reasoning, self-sufficing thing,
An intellectual all-in-all.

Such persons belong to the large family, the Turveydrops. They are always studying deportment; learned in the art of a well-bred stare; learned in the art of fixing an eye-glass discreetly , the art of speaking mother-tongue so that the poor old lady, dear old mother, don’t know herself, but fancies herself in some barbarous country; the art of making not the most of time but the moral dissipation, a shallowness and emptiness fatal to advancement in worth or intelligence. And the lives of even eminent men sometimes only create the impression of desultoriness and vanity. Thomas Moore, the poet and historian of Ireland, was not an ordinary man; but the perusal of his life leaves contempt as one of the most abiding emotions in the mind.

These characters are not rare. They are the Literary Commons of the Senate of which Chesterfield, if we judged him by his letters to his son, was a Peer. In some instances, they possess a larger average of intelligence than in the above lines we give them credit for; but the real substratum of the character is vanity. In this age, the propensity of the village clown to decorate his person, and to appear occasionally to the best advantage, is not sufficient for those who occupy the same position in their sphere which the clown occupies in his; they are desirous of ranging above him. Head, therefore, they must; but their reading is confined to the pages of worthless sensation novels. And, as such books are very generally read, and they have read them with the same avidity as other persons, their criticisms are very cheaply won, and very well received. They belong in this age precisely to the class of persons to which, in the days of the Vicar of Wakefield, “Georgiana Carolina Wilhelmina Amelia Skeggs” belonged; they have learned the name of Shakspeare, whom they always call “the gifted, the universal, and the immortal;” and they are qualified to talk upon the merits and the meaning of Shakspeare with Miss Skeggs. Their scorn of mediocrity is amusing; they have confidence in their own powers; they have picked up the slang of charlatans and mountebanks, and of course can talk about “the spirit of the age;” about ” the mighty thoughts heaving in the breast of the future;” about “the scintillations, hallucinations, &c. &c. brightening in the eye of Humanity.” Nothing is more sickening than the euphuistic verbiage of this disgusting and meaningless common-place in their minds and on their tongues. It means nothing! it is innocent! for it is lifeless; words are used which, to their minds, never had a meaning; and thus their characters present an everlasting lie. For here is, indeed, the sadness of all this hollowness, Who that has thought at all does not know the danger of moral sentiment, unaccompanied by active virtue? The remarks of the Rev. Archibald Alison are worthy of some pondering, when he insists that the faithful parent, or the wise instructor, will ever endeavour assiduously to accommodate the ideas of excellence to the actual circumstances, and the probable scenes, in which their future years are to be engaged. If the life is not thus prepared, what a melancholy failure does it usually exhibit!

“It is the fine-drawn scenes of visionary Alison’s distress to which they have been accustomed, not the plain circumstance of common wretchedness; it is the momentary exertions of generosity or greatness which have elevated their fancy, not the long and patient study of pious duty; it is before an admiring world that they have hitherto conceived themselves to act, not in solitude and obscurity amid the wants of poverty, the exigencies of disease, or the deep silence of domestic sorrow. Is it wonderful that characters of this enfeebled kind should recoil from the duties to which they are called, and which appear to them in colours so unexpected ?, that they should consider the world as a gross and a vulgar scene, unworthy of their interest, and its common obligations as something beneath them to perform; and that, with an affectation of proud superiority, they should wish to retire from a field in which they have the presumption to think it is only fit for vulgar minds to combat?

“From hence come many classes of character with which the world presents us, in what we call its higher scenes, and which it is impossible to behold without a sentiment of pity as well as of indignation. In some, the perpetual affectation of sentiment, and the perpetual absence of its reality; in others, the warm admiration of goodness, and the cold and indignant performance of their own most sacred duties; in some, that childish belief of their own superior refinement, which leads them to withdraw from the common scenes of life and of business, and to distinguish themselves only by capricious opinions and fantastic manners; and, in others of a bolder spirit, the proud rejection of all the duties and decencies which belong only to common men, the love of that distinction in vice which they feel themselves unable to attain in virtue, and the gradual but too certain advance to the last stages of guilt, impiety, and wretchedness. Amid these delusions of fancy, life, meanwhile, with all its plain and serious business, is passing; their contemporaries in every line are starting before them in the road of honour, of fortune, or of usefulness; and nothing is now left them but to concentrate all the vigour of their minds to recover the ground which they have lost. But if this last energy be wanting, if what they ‘would, they yet fail to ‘do, what, alas, can be the termination of the once ardent and inspiring mind, but ignominy and disgrace?

A heart dissatisfied with mankind and with itself; a conscience sickening at the review of what is passed; a failing fortune, a degraded character, and, what I fear is ever the last and the most frantic refuge of selfish and disappointed ambition, infidelity and despair.”

Seneca, the moralist, is an eminent illustration, unless his character is grossly traduced, of the possession of fine theoretical views of virtue, the power to utter glittering sentences, words, scintillations, without any love for virtue or truth in the heart, or, at any rate, without any fulfilment of them in the life. How easy it was to pen those fine and fanciful sentiments on contentment and happiness, and the pleasure of virtuous emotion, while avariciously accumulating his hoards of wealth, banqueting at ease in his magnificent gardens and palaces, pandering to the wild and licentious enjoyments of a corrupt and cruel prince, conniving at the parricidal murder of the mother of the Emperor by the son she had raised to empire and to dignity. All this appears to be true of Seneca, and, therefore, he may be appropriately held up, rather to the execration than the admiration of mankind; and it should be a warning to the people of every age, never to divorce magnanimity of sentiment from magnanimity of action; life is only real when they are combined.

There dwelt in Athens, as Xenophon tells us, in the time of Socrates, a young man named Euthedemus; he was also surnamed the Fair. He was sufficiently wealthy to purchase a great number of manuscripts and books upon all subjects, and his wealth also allowed him to lounge his time away in various parts of the city of famous resort, in a kind of elegant laziness. His appearance was attractive. His exterior was the cause of the vanity of his mind. Finding so much praise bestowed upon his body, the fair proportions of which had caused him no labour or pain, he arrived at the belief that he might obtain a mental reputation on the same easy terms. He affected rather, therefore, to patronize knowledge than to be a disciple. He mentioned with condescension the great names of the poets, and teachers, and generals of Greece. He had no real ambition to be wise, but a great ambition to be thought so. He had no great yearnings after excellence, but he greatly desired the honour of excelling. What books he had were, for the most part, unread. His knowledge was superficial and crude. He did not, of course, perceive it to be so: on the contrary, he aimed to be thought rather the teacher of other men, the setter-to-rights of opinions. He had books upon his shelves: was not that knowledge? He heard wise men talk: was he not therefore wise? and he walked about in the streets of Athens, head full of immense ideas of his own power an importance. He affected elegance in dress, too, and altogether sought as far as possible to impose the appearance of a most fashionable decorum upon the literary citizens. He was, in brief, a
kind of literary dandy; and he paraded the titles of books, and his criticisms upon them, and upon
men and things in general, just as an exquisite in our age might parade his rings or studs.

Indeed, the modern Euthedemus might be witnout the sketched very well by the side of the Athenian one. Knowledge. The modern Euthedemus lounges still through our literary saloons and circles, himself the impersonation of a savant, a poet, a moralist, a theologian, with a jaunty fashionable air, priding himself very much, too, upon a fashionable exterior and free and easy bearing. He, too, has heard of all books, ‘and is quite able to weigh the merits of them all. He holds in his hand the gaugingrod of all sciences, and can measure the figures of all poetry. He talks familiarly of all poets, as one who could do all that kind of thing quite easily, but will not be put out of the way to perform such trifles. It is the inevitable result of certain states of civilization to produce men who desire to receive some of the reflected light of literature; for all professions and all ages have their amateurs and dandies, men of the Euthedemus class, who wear the star of hereditary nobility, but are yet utterly powerless to make themselves noble. For worth and fame generate the ideas of vanity in other minds; and hence there must be ‘foplings,, ignorant pretenders, in every walk of life and society. So Euthedemus wrapt his fashionable robe around him, and priding himself much on the admiring glances of the maidens of Athens, as he stepped along upon his way, sought the company of the literati of the city. Into the public assemblies he was, as yet, too young to be admitted; but there was a harnessmakers, whither he was in the habit of resorting , a kind of bazaar, or meeting-place of the most wealthy and talkative persons of the city. There were no booksellers, shops, no circulating libraries; but the Athenians would pride themselves on the furniture and the housings of their horses and chariots; and there the young man gathered a company round him to whom his word was a kind of oracle, the staple matter of his discourse being the deficiency of the Sophists and philosophers, and the innate power of man to develop himself without culture, or education, or reliance upon the previous discoveries and teachings of men. But Socrates perceived beneath all this depth of vanity and conceit, a foundation of ingenuousness, and, perhaps, capacity for wisdom; his mind was filled with compassion for the young man without a leader, and he determined to attempt the correction of his follies; and on one occasion he followed him to the harness makers, and, accompanied by some of his friends, the topic was started by one of them, “Whether Themistocles had been much advantaged by conversing with philosophers; or, whether it were not chiefly the strength of his own natural talents which had raised him so far above the rest of his fellow citizens, as made them not fail to turn their eyes towards him whenever the State stood in need of and awakens a person of uncommon ability?” Socrates, willing to pique Euthedemus, made answer, “It was monstrous folly for any one to imagine, that whilst the knowledge of the very lowest mechanic art was not to be obtained without a master, the science of governing the Republic, which required for the right discharge of it all that human prudence could perform, was to be had by intuition.” This does not appear to have been said to Euthedemus, but in his hearing. It filled the young man with uneasiness; it was a word of common sense, unlike what he had heard and believed; and how uneasy it made him he showed by avoiding Socrates, cautiously. He feared to be taken for one of his followers, for the sayings of Socrates clove right down through the heart of all his vanity. He had supposed himself superior to all the teachers of his age; and here, brought into contact with one, and the most despised one, he found himself worsted in the very first few words. His vanity was alarmed. He drew a circle round himself from which he attempted to exclude Socrates.

But Socrates would not be excluded; he followed Euthedemus, and designed to attack him openly; and once they were brought opportunely together, and Socrates, turning to some who were present, “May we not expect,” said he, “from the manner in which this young man pursues his studies, that he will not fail to speak his opinion even the very first time he appears in the assembly, should there be any business of importance then in debate? I should suppose, too, that the proem to his speech, if he begins with letting them know that he hath never received any instruction, must have something in it not unpleasant. ‘Be it known to you, will he say, ‘O ye men of Athens! I never learnt anything of any man; I never associated with persons of parts or experience; never sought out for people who could instruct me; but, on the contrary, have steadily persisted in avoiding all such, as not only holding in abhorrence the being taught by others, but careful to keep clear of even the least suspicion of it; but I am ready, notwithstanding, to give you such advice as chance shall suggest to me., Not unlike the man,” continued Socrates, “who should tell the people, while soliciting their voices, ‘It is true, gentlemen, I never once thought of making physic my study; I never once applied to any one for instruction; and so far was I from desiring to be well versed in this science, I even wished not to have the reputation of it; but, gentlemen, be so kind as to choose me your physician, and I will gain knowledge by making experiments upon you.” Of course, loud was the laughter at this humorous sally. Euthedemus, after this, never avoided the company of Socrates, but attempted to impose upon him by the affectation of a modesty he was far from feeling. But Socrates desired to rouse and stimulate him to the pursuit of knowledge and wisdom by active habits of self-denial and virtue; he spoke in hints, and constantly, while he spoke, he made his words turn in this direction. To govern men, to piaster science, to be able to discourse with others, can only be obtained by the improvement of our mind by a regular apprenticeship to knowledge. Said Socrates: “Is it not strange, sirs, that while such as wish to play well on the lute, or mount dexterously on horseback, are not content with practising in private as often as may be, but look out for masters, and submit willingly to their commands, as the only way to become proficients and gain fame, the man whose aim is to govern the Republic, or speak before the people, shall deem himself aptly qualified for either without the trouble of any previous instruction? Yet surely the last must be owned the most difficult; since, out of the many who force themselves into office, so few are seen to succeed therein; and therefore it should seem that diligence and study are here the most needful.”

And thus Socrates prepared the way for a more definite discourse, and a more conclusive grappling with the peculiarities of the character of Euthedemus. By hints and hits like those we have quoted, he would lead the young man to suspect himself; he would lead the young man to infer that his mind needed training, that the work of governing men was not so easy as he had anticipated; that the world had wiser men than himself. In self-suspicion is the foundation of much knowledge, nay, the commencement of all wisdom. He who has not distrusted himself is, as yet, in the very cloud-land of ignorance. As we watch Socrates moving about among his fellow-citizens, we are struck with this as the chief characteristic of his teaching: that he leads men to a distrustfulness of their own opinions, their own powers, their own knowledge, certain that the mind fully occupied with ideas of its own importance and its own worth, must be closed against the entrance of all truth, all other knowledge. And in the next conversation he proceeded to give shape to his ideas of the method of education to be pursued by the youthful Euthedemus.

We have always thought the conversations with Euthedemus among the most affecting and influential recorded by Xenophon. When he so cleverly rebuked the mere book collector, who yet had no purpose to serve but his own vanity in the collection, till the bated spirit exclaimed, full of emotion, “O, Socrates, I will not deny to you that I have hitherto believed I was no stranger to philosophy, but had already gained that knowledge so necessary for a man who aspires after virtue. What, then, must be my concern to find, after ‘all my labours, I am not able to answer those questions which most importeth me to know? and the more as I see not what method to pursue whereby I may render myself capable?”

“Have you ever been to Deiphos?”

“I have been there twice.”

“Did you observe this inscription somewhere on the front of the temple, Know thyself?

“Yes, I read it.”

“But it seems scarcely sufficient to have read it, Euthedemus. Consider it, and, in consequence of the admonition, set yourself diligently to find out what you are?

From: Paxton Hood: “Self-Formation, or, Aids and Help to Mind-Life.” London, 1865.

Dezember 24, 2011
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Moeurs parisiennes. CE QU’IL Y A DANS UNE GOUTTE D’HUILE.

L’infortuné dandy dont nous avons raconté les succès et les revers sous ce titre: L’Habit et le Moine, le pseudo-lion Roger de Cancale, jeune employé au Mont-de-Piété, qui veut trancher, comme quelques-uns de nos lecteurs s’en souviennent peut-être, du millionnaire et du marquis, eut un jour une de ces heureuses chances qui ne se présentent, dit-on, qu’une seule fois dans la vie d’un homme. Il faillit réaliser la chimère, le rêve de son existence tout entière, devenir ce que, depuis dix ans, il s’efforce si laborieusement de paraître, c’est-à-dire posséder des rentes, de vrais chevaux, un hôtel non imaginaire, des laquais poudrés et galonnés, des châteaux, des parcs, des métairies et une loge à  l’Opéra. Toutes ces splendeurs brillèrent un instant à ses yeux, et puis s’évanouirent sans retour. Tant d’opulence tint pour lui à un fil, ou pour mieux dire à une… mais n’anticipons pas sur les événements.

Vous saurez donc que notre vicomte avait eu naguère l’heur extrême de séduire une riche veuve, la charmante baronne Dorliska de la Fenouillère, qui, avec son coeur et sa main, devait lui apporter une dot de cinquante mille écus de rente amassés par le défunt baron, munitionnaire sous l’Empire, et transformé en gentilhomme sous le règne de la branche aînée, moyennant une somme ronde de dix mille francs, qui était alors le prix-courant des lettres de noblesse. D’ailleurs, comme le disait le financier Zamet, l’ami de Henri IV et de Gabrielle d’Estrées, l’homme qui est seigneur de trois millions ne saurait être un roturier.–Comment Cancale s’y était pris pour opérer cette conquête, nous ne saurions trop vous le dire: mille causes avaient concouru à  ce capital résultat. Le noeud gordien de sa cravate y était certainement pour quelque chose. Les bottes vernies dans lesquelles se mirait ce nouveau Narcisse pouvaient aussi revendiquer une part dans ce brillant succès. Son gilet extravagant ne pouvait manquer de charmer la plus folle de toutes les baronnes. Son aplomb, sa fatuité, l’assurance avec laquelle il parlait de ses terres, de ses gens et de ses poneys, les quelques relations aristocratiques sous le protectorat desquelles il avait soin de se produire, n’avaient pas moins contribué à  fasciner cette dernière, dont le coeur ressemblait beaucoup à  la noblesse, c’est-à -dire qu’il n’était pas de roche. Bref, dans le tourbillon d’une valse à  deux temps exécutée l’hiver dernier au bal de M. de Rambuteau, le vicomte, qui était de première force à  cet exercice gymnastique cher à  la nouvelle jeunesse dorée, avait osé risquer une déclaration en forme que sa Françoise de Rimini, entraînée avec lui dans l’espace, avait accueillie en souriant. Au bout de la spirale, tout était dit: ils s’étaient avoué leur mutuel amour. On va si vite quand on valse!

Au samedi suivant, on donna libre cours à  de timides souhaits trop longtemps comprimés, et il fut convenu qu’on s’épouserait aussitôt le printemps venu. Le vicomte était trop habile pour se permettre de brûler du moindre feu illégitime.

Mais, hélas! au moment où luisait déjà  pour lui le chaste flambeau de l’hyménée, un quinquet jaloux versa une larme, et cette larme (de combien d’autres pleurs ne devait-elle pas être suivie!) vint tomber juste sur le collet du futur époux de Dorliska.

Le lendemain, celui-ci, en passant d’un oeil plein de sollicitude l’inspection de sa chère toilette, complice de son glorieux succès, et comme il chantonnait dans ses dents le refrain du grand poète national:

Ah! mon habit, que je vous remercie!

il aperçut avec épouvante une odieuse tache qui se prélassait, s’épanouissait sur la cime de son elbeuf numéro un. En vain il regratta, frictionna, brossa la place où l’horrible stigmate avait fait élection de domicile, il ne réussit qu’a le rendre un peu plus visible à  l’oeil nu. L’huile est de ces forbans avides qui n’abandonnent pas facilement leur proie, et c’était merveille de voir comme elle s’étendait à  la ronde, imprégnant la trame moelleuse et rongeant de ses tons livides la fraîche teinte du tissu.

Or, Cancale devait, le jour même, faire sa cour à  la baronne qui, la veille, en prenant congé de lui, avait languissamment laissé tomber de sa bouche cette suave parole: «A demain!» Manquer à  cette invitation, à  cet ordre, c’eût été se perdre, se suicider, matrimonialement parlant.

Dans son désespoir, le vicomte songea d’abord au dégraisseur; mais, outre que cet industriel vend ses services au poids de l’or (deux francs cinquante centimes, prix net d’une paire de gants blancs), il était trop tard pour qu’il pût recourir à  son ministère. L’heure pressait. Le vicomte, en proie à  de sombres réflexions, endossa machinalement son frac terni, prit son chapeau, et descendant les cinq étages qui conduisaient à  sa mansarde de la rue Jean-Pain-Mollet, gagna le quai, dont il suivit mélancoliquement le trottoir, qu’ombragent de jeunes fagots d’épines décorés du nom de tilleuls par l’autorité municipale. Les mains dans ses poches, le nez au vent, il semblait chercher au ciel une inspiration et implorer la Providence.

Tout à  coup cette dernière se manifesta à  lui sous la forme d’un quidam, porteur d’un chapeau jadis blanc, penché comme la tour de Pise, d’une énorme paire de favoris, d’une cravate rouge et d’une ample redingote de castorine. Ce personnage, qui se tenait adossé au parapet sur lequel on voyait étalée près de lui une petite boîte de fer-blanc, bondit à  l’aspect du vicomte, et s’élançant au-devant de lui:

«Dieu! la belle tache! s’écria-t-il; ah! monsieur, pour l’amour de l’art, souffrez qu’on vous en débarrasse!»

En même temps il saisit le collet de Cancale et commença à  le frotter vigoureusement d’une sorte de substance bleuâtre qu’il tenait dans l’une de ses mains, et qui ressemblait à  s’y méprendre à  du savon dit de lessive.

Le vicomte ouvrit de grands yeux, et, tiré en sursaut de sa rêverie, crut voir un ange libérateur dans le rébarbatif Bohémien qui venait de lui barrer le passage.

«Qui donc êtes-vous? demanda-t-il.

–Qui je suis? répondit l’homme à  la castorine; vous voyez devant vous, monsieur, l’inventeur breveté du célèbre savon oléagineux-végétal, le fruit de mes explorations dans toutes les parties du monde, y compris la Polynésie et l’archipel des îles Marquises. A l’aide de ce savon, monsieur, composé de simples recueillies sur les plus hautes montagnes du globe, j’enlève toutes les taches qui veulent bien m’honorer de leur confiance. Il n’est pas d’habit si graisseux, de paletot si maculé, d’étoffe généralement quelconque si outrageusement souillée, que je ne rende en peu de minutes propre, nette, resplendissante comme une pièce de six liards; et tout cela, monsieur, tout cela pour la modique bagatelle de dix centimes, deux sous, vieux style!»

En prononçant ces mots, l’industriel en plein vent, dont la propre redingote témoignait par écrit du cas qu’il faisait de son savon, substance si précieuse à  ses yeux qu’il n’osait s’en servir pour lui-même; l’industriel, dis-je, continuait d’empâter avec une ardeur sans pareille le collet du vicomte. Séduit par l’éloquente tirade ci-dessus, celui-ci le laissait faire et attendait avec confiance le résultat de l’opération.

En ce moment fatal, le bruit d’une voiture se fit entendre. Une brillante calèche, traînée par deux chevaux dépareillés, s’avançait au milieu de la chaussée. Cancale y jeta les yeux et reconnut….. quel coup de théâtre! j’en frémis encore quand j’y pense… dans la belle dame assise au fond de l’équipage, la prétendue, la divine baronne Dorliska de la Genouillère. Quel génie, malfaisant, quel démon vomi par l’enfer, pouvait l’attirer à  cette heure sur l’excentrique et antifashionable quai désigné sous le nom de Pelletier? Pénètre qui pourra le mystère! Ce qu’il y a de certain, c’est que Cancale, médusé à  l’aspect de son amante, perdit, en cet instant critique, toute présence d’esprit au point de la saluer gauchement, se coupant ainsi toute retraite, toute dénégation ultérieure, et constatant lui-même sa triste, sa déplorable identité. Le vertige qui parfois nous saisit aux heures de péril extrême peut seul expliquer cette lourde, cette inqualifiable aberration.

La baronne, qui jusqu’à  ce moment n’avait point aperçu Cancale, devint pourpre de confusion et de colère en reconnaissant, dans le cavalier qui lui tirait son chapeau si maladroitement, le radieux vicomte aux prises avec l’industriel à  la mine équivoque que nous venons de vous dépeindre. Elle s’agita convulsivement sur son siège en se mordant les lèvres, donna ordre à  son cocher de fouetter, et s’éloigna emportée par ses rapides normands, non sans avoir lancé au malheureux dandy un regard de mépris souverain et de foudroyante ironie.

Atterré, écrasé, stupéfié, celui-ci sentit une sueur froide lui ruisseler par tout le corps. La bouche béante, le jarret tendu, l’oeil instinctivement fixé sur la calèche qui s’enfuyait, emportant tous ses rêves dorés, il demeura immobile, sans haleine, sans voix, comme s’il eût éprouvé soudain le sort de la trop curieuse femme de Loth.

L’inventeur breveté du célèbre savon oléagineux-végétal le tira de sa léthargie en lui disant:

«C’est fait, bourgeois! vous voilà  maintenant propre comme cinq sous. C’est dix centimes que vous me devez pour vous avoir enlevé votre tache…

–Misérable! mais ce n’est pas ma tache, c’est ma maîtresse que tu m’as enlevée! s’écria d’une voix de tonnerre le malheureux vicomte, rappelé par cette interpellation au triste sentiment de l’horrible réalité.

–Qu’est-ce qu’il me chante donc là , ce moderne? reprit l’homme à  la cravate rouge; est-ce que je ne vous ai pas dégraissé, par hasard? mes deux ronds tout de suite, ou sinon…»

L’infortuné Cancale paya et s’éloigna la mort dans l’âme, conservant, toutefois, encore une parcelle de ce vague espoir qui n’abandonne jamais l’homme au milieu des plus grands revers.

Cette dernière planche de salut ne tarda pas à  lui manquer. Le soir même, il reçut par la poste, à  son domicile d’emprunt, une petite lettre ainsi conçue:

«Monsieur,

«Il est inutile de vous présenter chez moi, comme vous aviez dessein de le faire. Je ne pourrais jamais m’attacher à  un homme qui se fait détacher dans la rue.

«Signé baronne D…. de la F……….»

Toute brève qu’elle fût, cette épître renfermait deux inexactitudes que notre qualité d’historien nous fait un devoir de relever. D’abord, ce n’était pas dans la rue, mais sur le quai que le malencontreux dandy avait été pris en flagrant délit de contrebande lionine; ensuite, il ne s’était nullement fait détacher, comme le supposait la baronne; car, dès le lendemain, la tache reparut plus florissante que jamais. Depuis ce jour elle a résisté à  l’emploi de tous les caustiques et n’a cessé de progresser; si bien que le vicomte peut parodier le mot de ce François Ier sous lequel ses aà¯eux combattirent, dit-il, à  la bataille de Pavie, et s’écrier, avec beaucoup d’à -propos et de vérité, que «tout est perdu, fors la tache.»

L’Illustration, No. 26, 26 Août 1843.

November 27, 2011
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Die Geschichte der Mode

Die Modejournalistin und Stylistin NJ Stevenson gibt in ihrem Buch “Die Geschichte der Mode. Stile, Trends und Stars” einenÜberblick von den Anfängen der Mode, die sie nach der Französischen Revolution verortet, eine Zeit, in der sich die Ständegesellschaft auflöste und Mode zum Ausdrucksmittel entstehender Individualitäten wurde, bis in die Gegenwart. Das Buch ist reich an Illustrationen und Abbildungen, die den Wandel der Moden erfahrbar machen. Stevenson präsentiert die Modestile der jeweiligen Epochen und stellt charakterische Kleidungsstile, wie Krinolinen, Turnüren, Melonen, das kleine Schwarze oder Bluejeans vor. Dabei wird der Zusammenhang von modischem und gesellschaftlichem Wandel deutlich sichtbar, wenn z.B. die so genannten Bloomers in den 1850er Jahren Hosen tragen, um ihren Emanzipationsbestrebungen Ausdruck zu verleihen. Daneben werden einflussreiche Gestalten der Modegeschichte vorgestellt, von Trendsettern wie Joséphine Bonaparte und Beau Brummell zu Schneidern und Designern wie Henry Creed, Paul Poiret oder Coco Chanel. Erfreulich ist, dass die Autorin sowohl die Entwicklung der Damen- wie die der Männermode darstellt. Deutlich wird dabei der immer schneller einsetzende Wandel im Wechsel der Moden und der zunehmende Eklektizismus durch verschiedenste Einflüsse aus anderen Epochen (Antike, Mittelalter), fremden Kulturen (Japonismus, Ethnolooks), Kunst (Futurismus, Surrealismus) und – zunehmend – der Popkultur (Hollywood, Glamrock, Rap, Grunge).

November 9, 2011
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The Betting Dandy

The young gentleman, with a medium-sized light brown moustache, and a suit of clothes such as fashionable tailors sometimes furnish to their customers, “on accommodating terms,” that is, on the insecure credit system, came into a hotel in Race street, one afternoon, and, after calling for a glass of Madeira turned to the company and offered to bet with any man present, that the Susquenannah would not be successfully launched. This ” banter” not being taken up, he proposed to wager five dollars that Dr. Webster would not be hung. This seemed to be a ” stumper,” too, for nobody accepted the chance. The exquisite glanced around contemptuously and remarked: “I want to make a bet of some kind; I don’t care a fig what it is, I’ll bet any man from a shilling’s worth of cigars to five hundred dollars. Now’e your time, gentlemen; what do you propose?” Sipping a glass of beer in one corner of the bar room, sat a plain old gentleman, who looked as though he might be a Pennsylvania farmer. He set down-his glass, and addressed the exquisite , “Well, Mister, I’m not in the habit of making bets, but seeing you are anxious about it, I don’t care if I gratify you. So I’ll bet you a levy’s worth of sixes that I can pour a quart of molasses into your hat, and turn it out a solid lump of molasses candy in two minutes by the watch.”
“Done!” said the exquisite, taking off his hat and handing it to the farmer.
It was a real Florence hat, a splendid article, that shone like black satin. The old gentleman took the hat, and requested the barkeeper to send for a quart of molasses, ” The cheap sort, at six a quart, that’s the kind I use in the experiment,” said he, handing over six coppers to the bar-keeper.
The molasses was brought, and the old farmer, wilh a very grave and mysterious countenance, poured it into the dandy’s hat, while the exquisite took out his watch to note the time. Giving the hat two or three shakes, with a Signor Blitz-like adroitness, the experimenter placed it on the table, and stared into it, as if watching tho wonderful process of solidification.
“Time up,” said the dandy.
The old farmer moved the hat. “Well, I do believe it ain’t hardened,” said he, in a lone expressive of disappointment; “I missed it, some how or other, that time, and I suppose I’ve lost the bet. Bar-keeper, let the gentleman have the cigars, twelve sixes, mind, and charge ‘em in the bill.”
“What of the cigars !” roared the exquisite, “you’ve spoiled my hat, that cost me five dollars, and you must pay for it.”
“That wasn’t in the bargain,” timidly answered the old gentleman; but I’ll let you keep the molasses, which is a little more, than we agreed for.” . . .
Having drained the tenacious fluid from his beaver, as he best could, into a spit-box, the man of moustaches rushed from the place, his fury not much abated by the sounds of ill-suppressed laughter which followed his exit. He made his complaint at the police-office, but, as it appeared that the experiment was tried with his own consent, no damages could be recovered.

From the Home Journal.

From: Rural Repository. Vol. 26, No. 21. July 20, 1850

November 9, 2011
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This Beautiful Man

Air, ” Ballinamori Orah.”, (Beuler.)

WHEN old uncle died, then he left me his cash,
And I in the fashion determined to dash ;
With my bright sparkling eyes and fine flashy ways,
I knew I should soon set the world in a blaze:
Relations all called me a noody,
But I was determined they should see
I would, and I should, and I could be
An exquisite beautiful man.

I purchased whip, gloves, and a large quizzing-glass,
Revolving-heel boots, and bright spurs of brass ;
Wigs, whiskers, and wrist-bands, and neat pair of
A high-mettled racer, and high-seated chaise:
To the tailor I then did dash on,
Said I, ” make a coat in the fashion,
For in the mode I would flash on,
Because I’m a beautiful man.”

I put on my stays, and soon I was drest
In pigeon-tailed coat, padded full at the breast ;
I slipped on my boots, and then I arose
So high, that I walked on the points of my toes:
My loose white trowsers, so handy,
Concealed my legs so bandy,
And made me appear quite the dandy,
And that is a beautiful man.

Now friends quizzed my pigeon-toes and pigeon-chest,
That is my pigeon-tailed coat, padded full at the breast,
And said, if ’twere not for my whiskers and eyes,
They should take me to be a great girl in disguise,
Or perhaps for a duck or a widgeon,
Or, rather, they all did allege on,
For a crow dressed up for a pigeon,
Instead of a beautiful man.

At balls, concerts, and plays I now did appear,
Where I talked, roared, and laughed, that no one
might hear ; I ogled the girls with my beautiful eyes
Till they all praised my beauty up to the skies;
Said I was an exquisite riddle,
Like both a beau and a fiddle,
Pinched in at the sides and the middle,
And sighed, what a beautiful man!

As the sun of the fashion I wanted to blaze,
So I hired a porter to lace up my stays ;
I was courting a lady of exquisite mien,
And I would be compact and fit to be seen :

I cried, ” pull the lace with all might, sir ;
Now pull it a little bit tighter,,
Oh la ! how I shall delight her l
Shell call me a beautiful man.”

Then I put on my whiskers, mustachios, and wig,
And waistcoat adorned with a lavender-sprig:
With rings on my finger, and patch on my chin,
I walked through the streets with a beautiful grin:
I was scented with musk and with roses,
And smelt like a bundle of posies,
The passengers sniffed up their noses
And cried, ” What a beautiful man!”

Arrived at the door, I gave a loud double rap,
Which made the street echo like a great thunderclap,
The maid opened the door, and up stairs she ran,
Crying out, ” My dear ma’am, here’s a beautiful man!”
When I was introduced to the lady,
She cried, in astonishment ” Hey day !
You’ve come to court me!”, I said, ” Ay ”
Said she, ” What a beautiful man!”

She admired me much, for she asked me to dine
With her friends, who, I’m sure, all thought me divine;
I sat down to dine, when my spurs, cursed fates!
Caught the cloth, and I fell, with pies, puddings, and plates :
With plum pie my face was soon painted,
My stays keep me in restraint, did,
I couldn’t get up,, so I fainted;
Now ar’n't I a beautiful man’!

From: The Universal Songster, or Museum of Mirth. Vol. 1, 1825.

Oktober 11, 2011
von mgr
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Der Dandy

Da sitzt er an köstlicher table, ,
Die Speisen sind alle sehr fein,
Man trinket vortrefflichen Wein,
Les dames de bon ton und aimables.
Da sagen die leidenden Züge:
“Ein Etwas ist nicht à  sa place,”
Doch Niemand erräth ja das Was,
Das ist ihm Triumph zur Genüge.

Da sitzt er in schwellendem Pfühle,
Ihr Auge so schwarz wie die Nacht
Ihn liebend und sehnend bewacht,
Erglänzend von tiefem Gefühle,
Errathend den Ausdruck der Züge
Ergreift er gleich stürmisch den Hund,
Spielt lachend mit ihm eine Stund’, ,
Das ist ihm Triumph zur Genüge.

Und Muth hat schon oft er bewiesen,
Den Degen führt kräftig sein Arm,
Doch ist es im Sommer zu warm, ,
So kann er sich freilich nur schießen. ,
Ich’ werd nicht ganz klug aus dem allen
Der Herr ist ein Gott, ist ein Held,
Wenn er sich nur selber gefällt,
Ein Wicht , will er Andern gefallen.

Aus: Soldatenlaunen: Von einem österreichischen Reiter. (1854)

September 6, 2011
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Description of a Dandy

written in a Lady’s Album, at Tunbridge Wells, Oct. 1 1818.

A Dandy ‘s a Thing without meaning or worth,
Unlike any Creature that crawls upon Earth!
A Fungus, unknown to Philosophy’s Eye !
It seems to exist, but we cannot tell, why ?
Of no species a part, neither Fish, Flesh, nor Fowl,
And shunn’d by Mankind, as Birds shun the Owl !
A Thing, which of use no mortal can render,
By Taylors made up, without any gender,
Of Belts, and of Bandages, Buckram, and Tape,
And in all points, but sense, like an Ass, or an Ape :
And yet such poor Nothings with Apes to compare
Is an act of injustice to Brutes I declare!
For Apes have Reflection, and useful the Ass ;
But a Dandy can only reflect in his Glass.
Then approach not these Itites, Dear Ladies, I pray.
For if once you embrace them they ‘d faint quite away!
We have heard of a Buck, Macaroni, and Spark ;
But a Dandy (poor Thing !) was unknown in The Ark ;
For Noah had never endeavour’d to save
A Thing of no use from The Deluge’s Wave!

Wm. Thos. F.-G.

(The gentleman’s magazine, and historical chronicle, Vol. 88, Bd. 2, Dec 1818)

August 20, 2011
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Le fumeur de cigares

Fumer un cigare, c’est mieux qu’un passe-temps, mieux qu’une jouissance; c’est presque une industrie, c’est presque une position sociale.

Le fumeur de cigares parcourt habituellement la ligne des boulevarts, depuis le boulevart Montmartre jusqu’au boulevart des Capucines. Il est là  chez lui, il est là  sur ses terres. Partout ailleurs vous pouvez l’aborder, l’accoster, le coudoyer familièrement; mais là , ne lui parlez pas, évitez de le heurter; il ne s’appartient pas, il n’est pas maître ni de ses mouvements ni de ses idées; – il fume.

Vous reconnaissez le fumeur de cigare à  sa lèvre dédaigneuse, à  son allure nonchalamment orientale. Il fronce le sourcil, il a l’air de chercher une idée, un souvenir, d’aimer, de rêver, de s’assoupir par degrés; et effectivement, il aime, il rêve, il dort, il médite, il est poète, il est roi; – il fume.

Le fumeur de cigares demeure ordinairement dans la Chaussée-d’Antin pour être plus près du boulevart. Il n’y a dans son appartement qu’un lit, deux chaises et des cigares.

Mais en entrant chez lui on ne se douterait pas de la pauvreté de son salon; car dès le matin la fumée envahit l’atmosphère, enlace les corniches, côtoie les lambris.

La fumée voile et vêtit l’appartement. Elle jette à  pleines mains le luxe et la poésie; elle suspend aux fenêtres de vaporeuses draperies, elle cache des meubles de laque dans tous les angles; elle fait courir sur les cheminées, sur les guéridons, les porcelaines de Chine les plus folles, les magots les plus ricaneurs.

Le fumeur de cigares a peu d’amis, sa conversation est en général assez négligée, attendu qu’il aime mieux lâcher une bouffée de tabac qu’une parole.

Par exemple, il a toujours une peuplade de créanciers autours de lui, une intéressante colonie de marchands et de fournisseurs; mais ils craignent de l’aborder, et toutes les fois qu’ils vont pour lui parler d’argent, il leur envoie une bouffée de fumée à  la figure. Ils ont même renoncé à  lui remettre leurs mémoires; il ne s’en servait que pour faire des allumettes.

Le fumeur de cigares n’est plus de la garde nationale. On n’a jamais pu l’empêcher de fumer dans les rangs.

Le fumeur de cigares a généralement éprouvé quelque peine de cœur; un de ses oncles l’a oublié dans son testament, il a été trahi par une danseuse qu’il aimait, ou bien il a fait un vaudeville que le parterre a sifflé.

Dès lors, il s’est jeté dans les cigares comme dans un parti désespéré, c’est le dernier intervalle entre le suicide et lui. Il s’est fait fumeur de cigares comme on se fait trapiste.

Mesdames, ne dites pas que l’odeur du cigare vous importune et vous donne la migraine. Il se cache souvent bien du désenchantement, bien du sceptisme sous la fumée d’un cigare de la Havane.

Vous torturez un cœur d’homme, vous trahissez un amant, quelle consolation lui reste-t-il? Quand il se voit trompé par vous, ruiné, chassé, dépouillé et raillé – il fume.

Psyché. No 535, 7. Septembre 1844, Année 11.

August 11, 2011
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Café Tortoni

Sous un titre léger faisons de la morale.
C’est dans ce pavillon que, de la capitale,
Viennent se rassembler les gros spéculateurs,
Les régents du crédit, les fougueux orateurs,
Gens de parti, chefs de cabale:
Voilà  les charlatans et les compilateurs,
Les concertants fameux et les compositeurs;
L’anonyme écrivain, dont la bile s’exhale
Sans péril contre les acteurs;
L’homme qui s’enrichit du luxe qu’il étale,
Et qui brille aux dépens d’imbécilles prêteurs.
Voice les savants directeurs
Et de l’intrigue et du scandale;
On voit dans le même salon
Les débarqués de nos provinces,
Du nord et du midi les sujets et les princes,
Tous y vivant à  l’unisson;
Tous y voulant conter quelques fausses nouvelles,
Et se faisant parfois de sanglantes querelles
Pour les couplets d’une chanson.
Selon le caprice et les heures,
Selon le temps et la saison,
On y voit accourir du fond de leurs demeures,
Des êtres de toute façon;
Des avocats pleins de raison,
En prenant un sorbet y méditent le Code;
Le prédicateur à  la mode
Y vient chercher des traits pour orner son sermon.
Mais quelle voix a frappé mon oreille?
C’est un ami de Plutus et des vers.
Riche poete! il connoît à  merveille
Les lois du Pinde et le cours sur Anvers;
Avec ardeur il poursuit, à  la Bourse,
Les fonds publics et les coupons flottants,
Avec adresse il saisit, à  la course,
Les capitaux des modernes traitants;

Avec respect il cite les passages
Des bons auteurs, soit anciens, soit nouveaux.
Le goût du vrai perce dans ses propos;
Complaisamment il vante ses ouvrages,
Et rend justice à  ceux de ses rivaux.
Place à  la troupe étourdie
De ces officiers d’un jour,
Bien plus connus à  la cour
De Paphos et d’Idalie,
Qu’aux lieux où la tragédie
Se joue au son du tambour.
Ils se font servir à  table
Comme des enfants gâtés;
Si leurs cris sont écoutés,
La cuisine est détestable
Et les vins sont frelatés.
Mais si l’on voit la manière
Dont ils entrent en matière,
Et dépêchent les morceaux,
Tout alors gaîment s’explique:
L’esprit fait de la critique,
L’appétit des madrigaux.
Vous que j’aperçois sous un voile
Qui cache à  moitié vos beaux yeux,
Vous qu’en simple robe de toile,
Un mortel protégé des dieux
Le matin conduit en ces lieux;
Souffrez qu’interprétant la joie,
Qui dans vos regards se déploie,
Je fasse avec vous le pari
Que ce n’est pas votre mari
Qui chez Tortoni vous envoie.
Avec un galant plein de feu
Vous y venez en tête à  tête:
La pudeur y jouera gros jeu;
Et si de l’amour c’est la fête,
L’hymen s’y doit amuser peu.
L’entretien s’échauffe et s’anime,
Et l’intrépide conquérant
Presse du genou sa victime,
Qui s’apprivoise et le lui rend.
Mais faisons trève à  ces peintures,
Qui montrent à  nu les amours,
Et consacrons, dans nos discours,
De plus décentes aventures.
Si mes yeux ne m’abusent pas,
J’ai devant moi deux époux d’une année.
Leur chaîne encore est toute fortunée,
Et du bonheur ils font les premiers pas.
La liberté préside à  leur repas,
La confiance inspire leurs paroles
De sentiments profonds et délicats,
Et des voluptés folles
Leurs cœurs épris font peu de cas.
Mais je me perds en ces vives images
Des plaisirs défendus et des plaisirs permis;
Et mon estomac compromis
M’oblige d’abréger ces indiscrètes pages.
Un réconfortant chocolat
Servi bouillant, à  double dose,
Est tous les jours mon premier plat.
Jusqu’à  midi je me repose;
Puis le déjeûner d’apparat
Vient après, je le compose
De mets qui flattent l’odorat.
Le nectar que l’onme fait boire
Est toujours pris dans le bon coin;
Et d’argent je n’ai pas besoin,
Le tont est mis sur mon mémoire.
Je suis là  du matin au soir;
J’ai ma chambre au second étage,
Et quand, chez moi, je veux avoir
Une glace, un punch, un potage.
Je fais signe au garçon, qui me tient lieu de page,
Ou je donne, en passant, un coup-d’œil au comptoir.
Lieu divin, séjour admirable!
On se croit au temps de la fable.

C’est un éternel mouvement,
Un panorama véritable,
Une optique, un enchantement.
En sortant de la comédie,
On fait un tour de boulevard;
On monte, un moment, au billard;
Et l’on engage une partie.
Dans un des salons de côté,
De bons Anglais prennent le thé
Sans qu’on entende une parole:
Plus loin est un cercle frivole
Où règne la franche gaîté,
Où chaque instant de l’heure qui s’envole
Par le plaisir est compté.
Vers minuit on fait retraite,
Et l’on va finir le jour
À la table de roulette,
Ou dans les bras de l’amour.

Paris et ses modes. (1821)