The Philosophy of Fashion
EVERY rational being must acknowledge the supremacyof fashion over the civilised portion of the world, but few could point out the peculiar principles in human nature most strongly affected by its influence. Pride, ambition, and vanity, are the most conspicuous of those passions we see occasionally produced under its fostering hand, yet there are few indeed in the catalogue of its effects. The powers it exercises are moral and physical, upon individuals and upon society. It existed from the earliest period. A certain style of dress has distinguished all ages and all nations; and different persons have generally followed that costume which their progenitors or predecessors had adopted. It is true that we have no Morning Post of the antediluvian ages, and I am fearful that every number of the Court Magazine published during the reign of Solomon is now out of print; but there is not a doubt that a Beau Monde of some kind existed in the periods to which I refer, and that somebodies and nobodies constituted the world much in the same manner they do at present. We know that Moses and David patronised dancing, but it is doubtful whether they ever heard of Almacks. Although we are told that Miriam, the prophetess, to the sound of timbrels, danced with her maidens for joy that the Egyptians had been drowned in the Red Sea, antiquaries are not certain that they trod the magic mazes of the waltz; and when we read that the royal Psalmist expressed his transport in a similar manner at the return of the ark, few are convinced that he did so in the very appropriate measure of the galopade. The scholar is informed that the Assyrians were partial to music, but there are no existing records to prove that Sardanapalus encouraged the Italian Opera in any part of his dominions. Some dramas, I believe, have been performed there with prodigious effect; indeed it might be said that in that distant part of the world “Semiramide” was first produced. “Medea” is of Grecian origin. “Mose in Egitto” belongs to the Hebrews. These it must be said created some sensation even in those remote times, but whether they produced as much harmony as they do in these degenerate days, has not been very clearly ascertained. It is most probable that when the Roman Empire was in the zenith of its glory and its grandenr, the Emperor Augustus held frequent levies , the Latin historians have almost said as much; but I have diligently perused many hieroglyphic papyri without ganing such information as would satisfy the important query , whether Cleopatra’s drawing-rooms were as brilliantly attended as those of more modern date? I would give something to learn who was the Ude of Heliogabalus, and who was the True-fit of Marc Antony; whether Apicins gave better dinners than Sir George Warrender, and if Aspasia arranged her soirées with more effect than the Marchioness of Londonderry. Whatever may be the result of these inquiries, it is certain that fashion was always respected, and that in the time of the more degenerate Caesars, when Constantinople was the seat of their splendour, it possessed an influence which has seldom been more despotic.
There are many other things connected with our reminiscences of distant ages which are worthy of being known. We all know that races were very popular with the Greeks and Romans, yet it is much to be deplored that we are totally ignorant of the names of the officiating Tattersall, and of the Latin “levanters.” Not the result of one steeplechase has come down to us; and after all the trouble which has been taken to explore the ruins of Pompeii, though so many manuscripts have been perused, and so many monuments deciphered, no mention has been found of their jockey club. A betting-book that had been the property of some Arcadian black-leg would now be considered a treasure far more valuable than the editio princeps of Homer; and a portrait of some celebrated racer in the Olympic games would be acknowledged more precious than an original Apelles. A fortune would almost be offered for a Court Circular describing Belshazzar’s private amusements, and the most lively interest would be excited in all circles, if any one should discover an autograph love-letter of Alexander the Great. But, alas! Time has laid his iron hand on those memorials of human pleasures, and they have crumbled beneath his touch, and mingled with the dust of those who gave them existence.
The moral advantages of fashion are manifold. That it produces a kind, a liberal spirit, among its votaries, the charity hazaars are a sufficient evidence; that it tends in a great measure to the diffusion of universal love, Doctors’ Commons can testify; that it infuses into the heart a proper affection for the animal creation, lap-dogs and parrots are efficient witnesses; and that it encourages the most exalted genius, Stultz and Maradan Carson can acknowledge. In the hazaars the àffects it produces are extraordinary. The ruling sovereigns of Haut Ton leave their absolute monarchies, and transform themselves into petty traffickers in fancy goods of their own manufacture. It is said that “charity covereth a multitude of sins,” and it has been known to do so, but it is scarcely possible that in this instance there can be any moral deformity to conceal. There seems in these matters to be so much of that pure and gentle spirit of humanity, and of that sweet association with the feelings of others which prompt all good actions. Fancy fairs can never be got up for the mere purpose of display, or from the wish to gain admiration. It is true that a lovely woman always looks more attractive when engaged in such generous purposes; and it must certainly be very flattering to find some little trifle she has made, produce more than fifty times its value; but who would be so ill-natured to suppose that there is anything but genuine philanthropy in these proceedings? It is a very pleasing way of disposing of drawings, and little baskets, and many other pretty things made more for ornament than use; and if Lord George should purchase them at an extravagant price, his lordship of course is actuated by liberal feelings towards the poor people for whose benefit the money is to be bestowed, and cannot have any idea of complimenting the beauty of the manufacturer when making his purchases. I wonder how some folks can think differently. The Court of King’s Bench is always an excellent authority on all subjects connected with the affections of the fashionable world. All classes during their sublunary existence have to endure their portion of suffering; but here, in Doctors’ Commons, and in the House of Peers, must the votaries of fashion undergo their trials. And why are they punished? not for warring against their fellow creatures, but for loving them too sincerely. It is true, they never told their love, except to each other; but “the flattering tale” became known to the lawyers, who do not encourage universal happiness, and they consequently put a stop to such St. Simonianism.
A familiarity with animated nature appears to be among the most prominent features in the portraiture of persons of fashion. Domestic animals are not the only objects of their attention, zoology is cultivated on a larger scale in the Regent’s Park, and in the neighbourhood of Kennington. But it has been stated, on somewhat doubtful anthority, that the beautiful and distinguished visiters of those delightful promenades are considered greater “lions” than the shaggy denizens of the place. Under the fostering care of fashion, Stultz has become as powerful as the Great Mogul, and Maradan Carson, through the same generous influence, is as great as Diana of the Ephesians. The first seems to possess the extraordinary power of making any man a gentleman, and without the latter no lady, who wished to be thought anybody, could be seen by civilised people. But there are a vast number of clever persons who, although they were not so fortunate as to have been tailors or milliners, have profited equally well from the patronage of the great, as the important personages just mentioned. Among the rest are tutors, governesses, and toad-eaters; the two former very frequently exercise the functions of the latter, while performing their own more immediate duties. The tutor enjoys the enviable privilege of teaching the male sprigs of the family whatever happens to be most agreeable to them. He must be a good scholar, to please the father, and a good shot to please the sons; evince his acquaintance with books to his lordship, and his knowledge of dogs to his pupils; forward the studies of the young gentlemen, to gain the favour of her ladyship, and superintend their love-affairs, to gratify themselves. The governess is honoured with the instruction of the female branches till they are found to be dangerous rivals to mamma, and are married out of the way, or till they are considered to be sufficiently talented to become stars in the gay world. She must be acquainted with every science, intimate with every language, adorned with every accomplishment, and she must possess every virtue under heaven, for the purpose of making each of the fair juveniles committed to her management a wonder and a prodigy. The toad-eater has still more important duties to perform. This individual is of either sex: the female is known by the name of companion or housekeeper, the male is generally some friendly tiger or fire-eater. They possess a great knowledge of human nature founded on continual observation, and know perfectly well the wiles and wishes of those hearts in whose service they are engaged. They are perfect machines, and go with the regularity of clock-work; will affirm anything or deny anything, remember anything or forget anything, as they are required; will fetch and carry like a spaniel, and fight like a dragon, if it is thought necessary. Although you may be no more an Apollo than Sir Lumley Skeffington, it is the business of Mr. Toadee to make you consider yourself a perfect Adonis; and if you should happen to wear less diamonds than the Duchess of St. Alban’s, it is the duty of Mrs. Toadee to convince you that yours are, as the Macassar Oil says, ” the only genuine.”
Other effects procced from the same cause. It is generally considered that the privilege of sanctuary had ceased to exist, but it is very evident that it is not entirely annihilated. Let an offender, no matter how great the offence may be, get shelter within the pale of fashion, and he will be allowed to escape without punishment. No man will lift his hand against him, no woman will frown upon him. He will be considered an innocent man, and welcomed with smiles wherever he goes. Another instance of liberality is evinced in the ordinary dealings of fashion with tradespeople. The foreigner is patronised, the native is not. Although an Englishman may produce goods superior and at less price, the Frenchman is preferred. For what reason? Because he is a Frenchman. To be sure, your countryman must suffer; but we were bom to suffer, and fashion should be above all vulgar prejudices. Fashion is a sort of philosopher’s stone, making every thing precious with which it comes in contact. A golden story shadows it, it is hallowed. What is necessary to its existence is tabooed, as are articles set apart for religious purposes in the Friendly Islands, and preserved from vulgar use and scrutiny. There is nothing of human creation so mysterious. The influence of the Venetian Council of Three was not more obscure and more absolute than is its power; and the laws of the Medesand Persians were not more sincerely honoured and more strictly observed than are its decrees. Kings are swayed by its supremacy, beauty bends beneath its rule, and the unhoncured by fame or fortune are raised by its fiat above the heads of rank and genins. Things, trivial in themselves, gain from it a value they could never otherwise possess; and riches, unaccompanied by its influence, may almost be said to be unprofitable to their owner, and worthless to the world.
W*.
Quoted from: The Court magazine and belle assemblée. Vol. IV, No. IV, 1834.