BY THE AUTHOR OF “THE WHOLE ART OF DRESS.”
Despotic thing, for ever changing,
Ever bright, and ever new,
Through varied maze of fancy ranging,
Hail! in all, and worship you.
St. James’s, an unpublished Poem.
The influence of fashion is certainly inexplicable, while it truly bears out the trite axiom, that custom, in the course of time, becomes a second nature. Under what a variety of names do we all worship it; ay, and the millions who love it best, most hate its very name, as the parent of dissipation and a long train of evils, yet no less pay it homage, after a peculiar fashion of their own. To a reflecting mind, taking the word, as our old friend and guide, Walker, gives it, in its broad and literal meaning, there can be nothing more degrading to humanity, than that its own ingenious feelings, from youth upwards, should become subservient to a thing so vacillating and inconstant in itself. Well may Horace’s exclamation apply to the present age, “O imitatores servum pecus.” for, where shall we find a nation so destitute of originality as our own, in regard either to manners, or dress? All are imported from that temple of refinement, Paris, from the pattern of a lace frill, to the score of made dishes that grace the table of a wealthy epicure.
To descend to the recollection of our school days for a moment, the reader will doubtless be enabled to remember with us his first incipient notions of following the will of another without any of his own. He will doubtless recollect some tall lad, considered stronger, or shrewder, than the rest, who, aspiring, led the others at follow-my-leader. Such an one, we well remember in our own juvenile days, it was, whose taste approved, or fancy suggested, each game that became popular; though, in following the then set fashion with others, we little thought we were enacting an epitome of our after life.
As we have referred to the days of our boyhood, let us now take a glance at the youthful aspirant in dress. His first definite notions probably have resulted from observations during the vacation, when the young eye is naturally caught by the adventitious aid of manly apparel, and he sighs to exchange a cap and jacket for a hаt and coat, and assume the dignity of collars to his shirts, and scraps to his trowsers. The request is immediately preferred to the fond ears of a doting mother, and, as precedents are immediately cited, in the persons of the little Dawsons and Lawsons, after a persuasive report to head-quarters, they are complied with in full, for, as the lady justly observed, “the boy might as well be out of the world, as the fashion.”
Leave we the first early impressions of the boy, to the gratification of his desires, and let us look to the man, and enquire his requisitions to be admitted a member of the choice union of the fashion of haut ton life: there many things are required, and some absolutely necessary, to hold a distinguished post in the inner circle, consecrated alone to the most eminently qualified geniuses.
Has he travelled, and tilled a duodecimo? Has he a smattering of French, German, and Italian, without possibly being enabled to maintain a conversation intelligibly in either? Is he a first-rate gambler and duellist, celebrated for his seductions and amours in general? Is he over head and ears in debt, and yet drives the finest turn out in the park, game to the last! Though heedless of all other demands, is he punctual in discharging his debts of honour? Does he sing, laugh dance, and ride, without an impetus to either, but through the force, alone, of custom? And last, but far from least, has he been called a “good fellow” by all the clubs of which he is a member. Such, most sage and gentle reader, are the polite qualifications naturally enough expected from your first-rate blood of fashion , else, destitute of the foregoing, how would he be worthy of his thousands of followers, who applaud him to the skies , while the energy of their minds, are exerted to become worthy of so exalted a leader.
In reference to dress, as it relates to our subject in hand, the volatile sons and daughters of fashion, the chosen few, are as remarkable and distinguished for their taste in this particular, as any other; it is, indeed, as we have somewhere read, the “outward and visible sign of the inward and spiritual grace.” And it may most properly be termed a free-masonry in the exterior, by which one of the fashion instantly recognises the other. It is in vain, ye citizen-imitators of the initiated in the mysteries of the art, it is in vain ye garb yourselves in Saxony of the finest, and patrol, on foot or horsehack, the parks, at five o’clock; there is a something in your very look, however smart, shall prate “of your whereabouts.” “The rank is but the guinea’s stamp, the man’s the gowd for a’ that;”, granted: but, oh! ye want that stamp most sadly, in seeking to vie with the fashionable, if but in outward sign. Mark the symmetry and sit of that Stultz* coat,, the light and elegant beaver,, with the brilliancy and beauty of the Bowtell** boot or shoe, contrasting with the “vile boro’-mong’ring work;” added to which, the indefinite “je ne scai quoi” in the style of wear, that easy, yet graceful fit, that proclaims, at a single glance, your genuine man of fashion from the pretender.
To such an alarming height does ignorance and prejudice exist, indeed, in the present enlightened age, that we have actually heard men, of “a learned and clever reputation,” enter into the question, as to which was the most valuable and available, dress or address. Nay, we have literally been condemned, notwithstanding the most eloquent and forcible arguments, to hear it determined in favour of address. Shade of the immortal Brummell!*** once pink of beaux and leader of men! methinks we now see thee before us, derision eloquent in thine eye, and scorn upon thy curling lip, at such monstrous ignorance , such a futile attempt to lower the importance of attention to that which thou most nobly and disinterestedly, for the good of mankind, devoted a lifetime to bring to its present state of perfection. Let us now candidly discuss the question,, not from any scepticism on our own part, but the rather as a masterly and entire refutation of the above envious judgment.
That address is of some slight importance, for the sake of argument,, lawyer-like,, we will admit; but that, for effect, it entirely succumbs to dress, is what we shall proceed to prove by a demonstration none can refuse. To effect this, it will be necessary to view each subject entirely independent of the other. Imprimis, will we place your man, with nought but address to back his suit or opinion. Who listens! , What weight can his arguments have? Does he solicit patronage? He may be clever, is the frank and instantaneous answer, but don’t like his appearance, something very suspicious in his looks. Does he chance to call upon a friend, , “not at home” is ever the saucily delivered answer of the servant, as she eyes him askance, with a look of your true ineffable kitchen disdain. Does he breathe, presume to breathe!, the soft and tender vow of adoration into beauty’s ear? , However tender and imposing his discourse, a single, nay, half a glance at once annuls its effects; for what says Burns, and surely he ought to know,,
Ye’r suit will never prosper, man,
Without guid braid claith.
Now, let us take a view of the other side of the argument. Cased in a fashionable and elegant dress, you make a request; however wanting in address, you are listened to with respect. If you blunder even, it is set down as an original style, delivered purposely out of the common course. But laugh at any thing you may chance to say, however dull, reiterated bursts proclaim it downright wit. Nay, in a word, absolutely say nothing, and your appearance, as the poet says of his mistress’s eye, speaks a volume in your favour, and does your business at a glance. To conclude then an argument, we flatter ourselves, we have so gravely shewn to be in favour of dress; while your sorry C. D. looking individual, with all his talents, is unheard, neglected and shunned, at all hands, your man, although with nought but dress to back him, is caressed by his friend, loved by his mistress, and the idol of all gazers.
Temple Place, Blackfriars.
*, **Celebrated Tradesmen.
*** Since penning the abоve, we have learnt this gentleman is still living, and is one of our consuls abroad; however, we may fairly consider him dead to the world of fashion.
Quoted from: The Olio, Or, Museum of Entertainment. April 16, 1831.